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Through the theoretical lenses of dress studies, gender, science and visual studies, this book constructs or assembles Ruskin’s theory of surface architecture, as it were, or the adorned “wall veilâ€. The creative act in architecture, analogous to the divine act of creation, was viewed as a form of dressing. This informed Ruskin’s theory of the adorned “wall veil,†where the masonry structure is wholly covered from base to coping with an uninterrupted veneer of polychromatic and bas relief ornament (ideally in combination). The veneer would consist of repeatable decorative units fused together, and be physically and symbolically distinct from the spatial and structural system it masked. As clothing made the body a meaningful cultural object, the addition of “venerable or beautiful†but “unnecessary†features to the edifice converted “building†(otherwise unmemorable and not properly the object of history) into “architecture.†The clothed status of architecture and Ruskin’s reliance on the myth of woman born dressed and the Classical figures of dressed women established architecture as always female and the textile analogy as inherently gendered. Importantly, the form and colour of the dress revealed the inclination either towards spiritualism or science. This informed Ruskin’s inventive historiography of medieval and Renaissance buildings, characterized by compelling textile metaphors that transformed tectonic elements into a complex language of folding, crumpling, tailoring, upholstering, cutting, and stitching. In architectural history, the known account of dress analogy in the nineteenth century is provided by Eugene Emmanuel Viollet le Duc and Gottfried Semper, and Adolf Loos (influenced by Semper). Therefore, in addition to presenting a new perspective on Ruskin, the book also presents a competing theory of textile analogy in architecture based on morality and gender, countering the dominance of Gottfried Semper’s historicist and ethnologically based theory. It also shows that the theory of the adorned “wall veil†advanced an alternative disciplinary definition of architecture as surface¾an entirely visual phenomenon, highlighting an important moment in the constitution of architectural modernity. The book provides a precursor to the recent re-emergence of surface debates in architecture. It gives currency to the emergence of surface studies¾an interdisciplinary field in humanities that considers the philosophical, ontological, psychological, performative, spatial, visual, and formal nature of surfaces (natural, artificial, real, and virtual).
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